Sunday, February 23, 2014

A Morning in Nairobi!


I thought I’d give you a look into a typical morning for me in Nairobi!


In contrast to the peaceful, secluded week we spent at Lake Nakuru, life in Nairobi is full of life, noise, and somewhat organized chaos.

7:00 AM:  Rise and Shine

At 6:30 AM I wake up to the noises of children getting on various school buses to ride at least an hour to school.  My own host brothers (11 and 6 years old) get up at 5:30 AM in order to catch their school bus at 6:20 AM. My brothers go to a private school over an hour away from our home.  Most children in Nairobi attend local public schools, but parents will send their children to private schools if they can afford the tuition costs.  Private schools in Kenya definitely have more resources and provide a better education for students. (Throughout the semester I will be doing research on the Kenyan education system, so I’m sure you will be hearing a lot more about Kenyan schools!) Though I am not a morning person at all (just ask my past roommates and family members) I think I could almost be a morning person here.  It is so much easier to wake up knowing a day of beautiful weather and the sun is waiting!  

7:45 AM:  Breakfast of CHAImpions

After getting ready for the day, I walk downstairs to a breakfast of toast, chai tea, and sometimes a fried egg or piece of fruit.  Kenyans love their chai.  For them, a big cup of chai and some bread will get them through the day, sometimes until dinner.  The first week at Lake Nakuru we religiously had chai at breakfast and though we didn’t have much structure for the rest of the day, we without a doubt had a break for chai every morning.  I remember the first day in Kenya I couldn’t drink more than three sips of my chai.  I remember thinking it wasn’t the same chai that I love from the Purple Onion in Minneapolis (The chai here is simply milk and tea and then sugar is added as needed) and I couldn’t understand drinking warm tea when it’s 80 degrees out. Now, I can’t leave the house without drinking chai (I actually just bought a travel mug yesterday so I can take some with me as I walk to class on the days I am running late which if you know me well is more days than not!).  I also started to have two cups of tea at break time! I can’t imagine how much I’ll be drinking when I leave in May!


8:00 AM:  The Journey to Nazarene

At 8:00 AM, I leave my house to begin my thirty-minute walk to school.  We all take classes at the Central Church of Nazarene.  Because our program is condensed into only seven weeks of class in Nairobi, we just take classes in our MSID cohort.  Most of our professors come to teach us at Nazarene, but also have other classes at the University of Nairobi.  All of the students in my program live with host families in estates within walking distance of our school.  Most neighborhoods or estates here are gated communities with security guards who are hired collectively by residents.  In our area, the houses are mostly identical two story townhomes with three to four bedrooms. 

By the time I start walking, Nairobi is bustling.  I see people in business clothes, children in school uniforms, elderly men in tattered and dirty clothing, babies in a cloth wrap strapped to their moms, college students with laptop cases and books, women setting up their stands to sell fresh produce, among many others.  The first couple days walking to class, I barely looked up from the ground as I navigated the uneven terrain.  Most of the path to school is a makeshift mud/gravel path alongside the bustling roads.  Along one stretch, a sidewalk does exist, but is in dire need of repair as huge chucks of concrete are missing.  I also have to dodge around piles of garbage, other people, oncoming bikes, and sometimes even vehicles when the sidewalk disappears or I have to avoid a puddle of water. 

Now I can navigate the streets without thinking twice, but it definitely took some time to get used to.  I also pass through Kenyatta Market on my way to school every day.  It is a huge market (kind of like a farmer’s market in America) where anything and everything is sold at individual stands and kiosks.  I frequently stop to get mangoes (they are sooo delicious here) and apples.  As a blonde American girl, I stick out quite a bit especially in this area of Nairobi where there is little diversity.   Without fail, several different groups of people will shout out “Hi!” “How are you?!”  “Taxi?” or “Mzungu!” Mzungu is the Swahili word for white person.  After a couple of weeks of passing the same people every morning and answering in Swahili, the locals have realized I am staying here for some time and look at me as less of a tourist! 

8:30 (ish): Classes Start


Our classes are supposed to start at 8:30 AM, but have yet to actually start on time!  Some of our professors operate on Kenyan time so we usually start around 8:45 AM or 9:00 AM.  I really wish professors in America ran on Kenyan time then I would never be late! In Kenya, there is a lot less emphasis on sticking to a schedule.  In America, we have a long list of things to do every day and often stick to a tight schedule to complete each item.  In Kenya, people also have a list of things to accomplish for the day, but there is less emphasis on what time things get done.  With each day in Kenya, my classmates and I are definitely getting used to Kenyan time.  We seem to arrive just a little later to class every day.  Personally, I find myself looking at the time less often than I do in the states.  In the US, every minute counts, but here time is a lot more fluid and flexible.  It was hard at first to adjust to this new way of thinking about time, but it has actually been refreshing change from my usual life of jam packed days, impending deadlines, and constant checklists!

10:30 AM - 11:00 AM:  Wakati wa Chai Tena (Time for Chai again!)
This is one of our favorite times of the day as I don't think any of us have had snack at school since fifth grade! We get to drink chai, eat cookies, relax, and soak up the sun!



11:00 AM - 12:30 PM  Class

And there’s a morning in my shoes!  I will be posting soon about my adventures from the past two weekends!


Sunday, February 9, 2014

Karibu Kenya!


Arriving in Kenya
Hamjambo! I can’t believe it has already been two weeks since I left home to start my last semester of college in Kenya.  It seems like a lifetime ago I was sobbing (not so attractively I might add) in the Sioux Falls airport as I said goodbye to my wonderful family for three and a half months.  I wasn’t as sad, however, to say goodbye to the bitter cold for at least eight months. :) After about 24 hours of traveling with plenty of airplane food (which I actually really like), I finally arrived in Kenya full of nervous excitement.  I had met quite a few of my fellow classmates during the layover in Amsterdam so it was comforting to know we were all together to get off the plane and start a semester full of new experiences and adventures. 

The Nairobi airport is currently under construction so we got to get off the plane right onto the tarmac.  We all felt like the President or something!  The second I stepped off of the plane, all the tiredness from traveling went away as I breathed in the warm, sweet air.  After waiting for awhile for our bags and going through customs, three of the MSID staff members loaded up all of our bags and took us to the YMCA (more of a hostel than a community fitness center) in Nairobi to sleep before we left for Lake Nakuru in the morning.  Driving from the airport to the YMCA I was amazed by how many cars were still on the road at 10:30pm on a Monday night. The traffic here is crazy!  It’s a lot like the traffic I remember in China!  There are very little traffic rules and signs and everyone kind of does what they want.  Though crazy and seemingly disorganized, drivers are a lot more aware of what is going on around them and often use their horns as a gentle “I’m coming through!” than a “What the heck are you doing?!” like in America.  I am continually surprised at how little space cars can fit through! It’s reminds me of that scene from Harry Potter where the bus can magically fit between the smallest of spaces.


 
First Morning in Nairobi
On Tuesday morning, we all woke up early to go to the immigration office.  It took over three hours for the office to process all of our immigration documents.  (Kind of similar to a DMV experience in the states!)  The office was nothing like I had ever seen before.  It seemed very disorganized, noisy, and chaotic.  At one point we were led back to an individual office where they took our fingerprints.  The small office was filled with piles of paper and the workers taking our fingerprints seemed distracted as they were on their cell phones.  I should probably mention here that I am awful at taking my fingerprints…I’m not sure why, but none of my fingers can produce clear prints!  At the airport, I had to put my fingers on a screen and none of them turned out right, but the attendant just shook her head after a couple of tries and let me go through.  My friends and I were joking that maybe it’s a good thing since I can’t really be tracked! 

After sitting around waiting and getting to know everyone, we finally go to go eat lunch and exchange some money for the week.  Right now, the exchange rate is about 85/86 shillings for every one US dollar.  In my head, I usually just think 100 shillings is a little over a dollar.  Things here are very cheap in comparison to the United States.  An outlet converter, which would’ve been fifteen or so dollars in America was 230 shillings (about $2.50).  Going out to eat is also cheaper ranging from about $3.00-$6.00 and you aren’t required to tip as waiters and waitresses do not depend on tips to make money. 

Orientation at Lake Nakuru
After a short morning in Nairobi, we got on the bus and headed to Lake Nakuru National Park.  Though we had only been in Nairobi a night, it was kind of a relief to escape the business of the city.  Being at Lake Nakuru was a lot like camp.  We were all split up into three different “dormitories” (like cabins) and had not so glamorous bathrooms.  All the girls shared one bathroom or we could go to the outhouses (just holes in the ground as toilets) and the shower water was freezing!  Besides the bathroom situation, which we all got used to pretty quickly, the week was absolutely amazing.  It was the first time in forever that I was completely cut off from technology and social media.  The first night I felt extremely isolated and I questioned why I decided to study abroad for three and a half months!  I decided I was crazy for being so far from home and all the reasons for wanting to study abroad escaped me!  Waking up the next morning, I was still feeling homesick when I walked out of my dorm and saw the beautiful park around me in the early morning mist.  A family of baboons then walked right onto our camp just feet from us.  At that moment I thought to myself, “This is amazing. Why wouldn’t I want to be here.”  From that moment on, the rest of the week was great.


 
The baboons at the park are notorious for coming through our camp and being mischievous. We had to always lock our dorm because in the past the baboons have gotten into the dorms and messed with everyone’s stuff.  We woke up every morning to a breakfast of chai tea, bread with peanut butter and jelly, and sometimes eggs.  We had cooks that made us delicious Kenyan food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  I honestly liked everything we had!  (I will add another post just for food as I’m sure everyone is wondering what it is like).  In between breakfast and lunch we sat out in the sun learning everything there is to know about Kenya.  I’m so thankful for the week at Lake Nakuru because it really calmed my nerves about many questions I had about the semester.  The MSID staff is fantastic.  They have had many many years of experience helping students before us and have provided us with all the resources we would ever need to have a fun, safe, and successful semester.  We have all their cell phone numbers to call/text them at any time whether we have questions about where to catch a bus, how much to pay for a mango, or if there is an emergency.  (Mom, I added this section in for you (: ) I also loved getting to know my fellow classmates, adjusting to the time difference, and just relaxing before being thrown into a completely new culture and environment.   

After our afternoon sessions, we got to go out into the National Park on game drives to see the beautiful scenery and all the fascinating animals!  This was one of the best times of the day!  Between our different game drives we saw lions, zebras, water buffalo, flamingos, giraffes, rhinos, baboons, and many other animals!  Often times we didn’t even need to leave camp to see the animals, though, as they were grazing right beyond the fence!  The whole week was surreal, as I had only seen these animals in zoos or on the Discovery Channel!  After our game drives, we came back to camp to hang out before dinner.  Dinner here in Kenya is served pretty late.  Usually we eat at 8:00pm or even later.  In our free time, we did Zumba (my friend Jenni is an amazing Zumba instructor), played soccer, rested, got to know each other, and just enjoyed the beautiful weather.  I was in heaven wearing shorts, a t-shirt, and my Chacos all week!  By Saturday morning, though I was excited to have internet again to talk to my friends and family back home and meet my new host family, we were all very sad to leave.  I would go back in a heartbeat! 



 

Three pages later, I think that’s all for now!  I will try now to post more often as I am getting into a routine here in Nairobi!